Handy Advice On Buying, Measuring, And Trimming Your New Entrance Door To Exsisting Door Frame

Buying a new door

When selecting a new door, you will need to make a careful note of the overall size of the opening into which it is to fit. As you will no doubt find, door openings are rarely square or perfectly upright. The new door will need to be trimmed to suit.

Doors come in standard sizes, so you will need to choose one which suits, making allowance for trimming. Most doors can be trimmed to fit.

Be sure to check the thickness of the door as this will also need to suit your frame. Some frames allow the door stoppers to be removed allowing a door of any thickness to be hung into the fame, then simply place new stoppers into the correct position when the new door is in the closed position.

Preparing the new door

You may find that some new doors come with the stiles untrimmed. These 'horns' as they are called should be cut off square. Lay the door on your workbench and use a carpenters square to mark the cut line. Hold the handle section against the edge of the door and line the blade up with the bottom/top of the door. Mark the line and trim with a reasonably fine-toothed saw. You should hold the saw so that it cuts cleanly along the line, but also pay attention to the angle of the blade in relation to the face of the door so that the bottom/top edge is also square.

Measuring

Measure the width of the opening at the top and bottom but deduct 4mm, to allow 2mm clearance at both sides. . Transfer these measurements to the door. If the door is only a little wider than the opening, measure from one edge and mark the cut line. If, however it is a good deal larger, measure and mark the cutting lines so that an equal amount will be trimmed from both sides. This is essential when fitting paneled or framed doors to ensure they appear symmetrical.

Now, measure the height and transfer the measurements in a similar fashion, allowing 2mm for clearance at the top and 6mm clearance for the floor. The latter may well need to be more if the floor is carpeted or uneven. If in doubt, take off the minimum. It's always possible to take off more, but a little difficult to add more on!

Most engineered veneer doors have an allowance of 10mm to be trimmed off both sides if needed, check your doors tech drawings and be sure that the lipping on the edge of your door is a minimum of 15mm before trimming to size.

Trimming

Use a vice on your workbench to steady the door. Pack both sides with cardboard to prevent damage to the door. Trim to the marked lines using a sharp plane. The trick is to hold the plane firmly in contact with the surface, square with the edge, and run it along smoothly. Work your way gradually down to the trim line over the entire length. Avoid trimming a short section at a time as this will lead to an undulating surface.

When trimming the top and bottom, you must only work from the outer edge, in. If you plane towards the outer edge, the end of the stiles will split.

Where more than 6mm or so needs to be trimmed from the door, it makes sense to use a saw to cut the majority of the excess before finally planing down to the trim line.

Often a guide can be placed onto the saw for a straight Steel Doors cut, place the blade of the saw onto your marked line then be sure the base of the saw is sitting inline with the edge of your door, place the guide up to the edge of the door and tighten guide.You do not want the guide moving halfway through your cut so be sure the guide is secure on the saw.

Place the door up to the opening and check the fit. If necessary, mark any additional trimming and plane as before. To help with this process, use a couple of small cheese shaped wooden wedges to hold the door off the floor by the appropriate amount. At this stage, any minor adjustments can be made from one edge rather than both without noticeably upsetting the symmetry.

Be sure to allow for different surfaces under your door, for example you may hang your door to a new bathroom jamb which may need underlay fitted and then tiles laid so be sure to calculate the thickness of the underlay and tiles then add clearance and trim. same application for carpeted areas also. Always remember that you can trim it off but you can't PUT IT BACK ON!!!

Sliding Pocket Door - A Good Solution For Tight Spaces

When space is tight, one of the main solutions in the architectural industry is to maximize the remaining spaces. Thus, the creation of pocket doors.

Sliding pocket door or simply pocket door has been among the most favorite solutions during the Victorian Period. In the later periods, however, it was transformed and shelved among the most overlooked space-saving solutions for house plans. But in actuality, it saves a floor space amounting to an average of 10 square feet. Now, imagine how much space you could save by just hiding the doors!

Like most doors, sliding pocket doors could be custom-built. Nonetheless, they are normally sold as pre-assembled units or as individual kits. The pre-assembled unit may be composed of all or several of the main components such as hanger track, jamb and the cage.

Sliding doors solve problems too. These could be used in a tight location in the house where a swinging door is impossible and where an out-swinging or inverted door is an awkward solution. Also, it could be used in places where hinge doors could be an obstruction. This is typical to laundry room, bathroom and closets. A pair of sliding doors could also be an elegant solution to create a divider between adjacent and relatively large rooms such as the living room and the family room. This way, the division between the rooms could be defined yet that same divider could be used to effectively extend the area of the rooms.

But sliding pocket doors have their drawbacks too.

Apart from the tendency to create noise after sometime, sliding pocket doors are also more time consuming as compared with hinge doors. Also, there are several locations and situations where they cannot be installed. For example, areas where plumbing, main electrical wirings and permanent equipments are found may not be good places to install pocket doors unless these could be relocated somewhere else. Additionally, pocket doors are not good structural supports since, in the first place, they are very weak structures. Therefore, cabinets could not be mounted or attached to these.

All types of doors have their advantages and drawbacks, one cannot expect to find a particular door that could suffice all needs. Now, making use of a sliding pocket door in the house could be a great way to save space but will they work perfectly for the space you are trying to save is the issue one must try to first equate.

Easy Installation - Pre-Hung Doors 101 Are you not all that capable with anything other than a hammer and a screwdriver? Well, if you can widen your scope, just a little, and incorporate a level into the mix, then you're well on your way to installing a pre-hung interior door. Now that we have peaked your interest, here's the fine print. To bring it to life, you'll also need 8d and 16d nails, wooden shims, and some wood filler. Once you have these 6 easy-to-find components, you may embark on an 8-step quest to beautifying your home. 1. The Rough Opening • Make interior doors sure that the rough opening is 1/2" taller and wider than the unit itself. 2. Determine the door swing • Is it going to be a right-handed door or a left-handed door? 3. Confirm that... • The threshold is level. • The hinge side of the rough opening is plumb. • The head is square to the hinge side of the rough opening. 4. Install Pre-hung unit • Slide the pre-hung interior door into the rough opening, bottom first. 5. Nail hinge side of frame • One 8d nail 6" from the bottom, another 6" from the top, and between the two, vertical center. 6. Repeat step 5 to the lock side of the frame 7. Nail the rest of the frame • Secure the header with shims and nails. Position wooded shims between the opening and the header. • Nail the frame into position through the shims using 16d nails. 8. Finalizing • Confirm that the gap between the door and frame is equal all throughout. If not, adjustments are needed.

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